Selecting Sewing Needles and Thread

Geneva Vanderzeil

Instructor

In This Lesson

An important step that’s easy to overlook is choosing the right needle and thread. In this lesson, I’ll guide you through how to select the right combination for your project and with the right match, you’ll avoid skipped stitches, puckering, and other common frustrations.

Understanding sewing machine needles

Using the right combination of needle and thread makes a huge difference in how smoothly your machine sews and how neat your stitches look. The wrong choice can cause skipped stitches, broken threads, or even damage to your fabric.

Not all needles are the same. Sewing machine needles come in different types and sizes, and the one you use should suit your fabric. A universal needle works well for everyday sewing, but fabrics like knits, denim, leather, and delicate silks each need a specific type to get the best results. Needle size matters too, thinner needles are ideal for lightweight fabrics, while thicker needles are better for heavier materials.

Thread is just as important as the needle! All-purpose polyester thread is a great go-to for most projects, but cotton thread works best for quilting and natural fabrics, and heavy-duty thread is needed for thick materials like denim and canvas. There are also specialty threads for decorative stitching, stretch fabrics, and sheer materials. The key is making sure your thread matches your fabric weight and sewing technique.

Matching the needle and thread to your fabric

For the best results, your fabric, needle, and thread should all work together. Lightweight fabrics need finer needles and thread, while heavier fabrics require thicker needles and stronger thread. If you’re sewing with stretch fabrics, you’ll need a ballpoint needle and polyester thread to prevent skipped stitches. A good rule of thumb—if your stitches don’t look quite right, check if your needle and thread match your fabric. Before you start sewing, always test your stitch on a fabric scrap to make sure everything runs smoothly.